The ancient city of Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka: attractions, photos, reviews

2024 Author: Harold Hamphrey | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 10:06

The beautiful island of Sri Lanka is a famous tourist destination for people all over the world. The small island with beautiful beaches and lush scenery is a real paradise for travelers. But there are other things besides beaches and landscapes that attract people from all over the world. The traditional essence of true Sri Lankan culture can be found in the small towns and villages of the country. One such place is the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. It is part of the "cultural triangle" along with Sigiriya, Anuradhapura, Kandy and Dambulla. It served as the capital for nearly 3 centuries between the 11th and 13th centuries AD and is an incredible day trip destination.

A little history of the ruins of Polonnaruwa

About 800 years ago, the ancient city of Polonnaruwa was the commercial and religious center of Sri Lanka. It flourished for three centuries as the royal capital of both Sinhala andChola kingdoms. The Cholas first appeared at the end of the 10th century when the South Indian Chola dynasty conquered Sri Lanka.

Before this, Anuradhapura was the capital of the Cholas, but they decided to move to Polonnaruwa for two reasons. Not only because there were fewer mosquitoes, but they would also be better protected from attacks by the Sinhala kingdom of Ruhunu in the southeast.

But in 1070 the Sinhalese kingdom and its king Vijayabahu I took the offensive. They overthrew the Chola dynasty and made the city of Polonnaruwa their capital. It was during this time of Sinhalese rule that she reached her highest glory.

The second king Parakramabahu I successfully expanded the ancient city. Beautiful parks, a huge lake and many large buildings were built during his reign. The third king, Nisanka Malla, did not perform well in his duties and ended up bankrupting the kingdom. It was at the beginning of the thirteenth century that the fame of Polonnaruwa began to decline, until finally it was completely lost. Then the capital moved to where Colombo is today, and the ancient city became the ruins of Polonnaruwa.

Road to Polonnaruwa

How to get to Polonnaruwa? There are several options from which travelers can choose the one that suits them best. The city is located 216 km from Colombo and 66 km east of Dambulla.

By plane. Hingurakgoda Airport is the closest. The only available flights are offered by FitsAir from Colombo-Ratmalan. There are more options from Sigiriya Airport.
Oncar. This is the easiest way. You should definitely ask for a Nissan Sunny or Toyota Corolla, otherwise they may not send you the best car. The advantage is that tourists will be driving with air conditioning all the way to Polonnaruwa, the road to which is quite pleasant with lots of greenery. Old massive trees tend to obscure the road as travelers leave urban areas, creating an overhang effect. The trip lasts 5 to 6 hours, including breaks for food, fruit and shopping (although the prices of items sold along the way are inflated, so buying them is not recommended).
By train. You need to take a train to Trincomalee at Colombo Fort station in Gal Oya to get to the ancient city of Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka. The journey takes a long time and the train leaves the station at 6:15.
On the bus. Buses also depart from Fort Colombo. You should choose an intercity flight to Polonnaruwa and in 6-8 hours you can be on the spot. From Anuradhapura, a direct bus leaves from the bus station in the New City and it runs throughout the day. The distance from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa is about 100 km and it takes 3 hours by bus. You can also get from Polonnaruwa to Kandy and back by bus. The distance between the cities is 150 km, and the bus ride takes 4.5 hours. Tourists wondering how to get from Polonnaruwa to Kandy should remember that the bus stops at Dambulla.

Polonnaruwa Bus Station is located 4 km east of the main attractions, so if the hotel is nearby,you can ask the driver to drive closer (for example, to the clock tower).

Where to Stay in Polonnaruwa

Tourists don't have to worry about accommodation when traveling to Polonnaruwa. There are more than 115 quality and affordable hotels to choose from, where you can enjoy exploring the main attractions of Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka. You can spend one night in a good hotel for only 1200 rubles. There are 3 five-star hotels in Polonnaruwa with an average price of 5500 rubles per night, as well as 3 four-star hotels with an average price of 3000 rubles per night and 4 three-star hotels with an average price of 2000 rubles per night. Polonnaruwa does not have many well-known chain hotels, but staying in a unique local hotel can make you feel right at home.

Visit to the ancient city

Entrance fee to Polonnaruwa is 3500 LKR (1276 rubles). Tickets can be purchased at the Archaeological Museum. You should make sure that the free card is also issued with the ticket. After purchasing your ticket, you can visit the Polonnaruwa Museum for information before exploring the ruins themselves. The entrance to the museum is located next to the ticket office.

According to reviews of Polonnaruwa, if you stay in a hotel in the city itself, then there is a chance to get to the ancient city before anyone else to avoid crowds of tourists and unbearable heat. It is also highly recommended to rent a bike for the whole day. This is the most relaxing and easy way to tour the sights of Polonnaruwa.

The ancient city is open from 7.30 am to 6 pmevenings. To the south of the main site, there are two more small clusters of ruins, the so-called island zone of the park (next to the museum) and around Potgul Vihara, 1.5 km south. They are free to visit and open 24 hours.

The main entrance to the ruins of Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka (photo in the article), surprisingly, is not at the ticket office. You need to return to the main road and walk a few hundred meters to the east to find the main gate. They are impossible to miss.

What to wear when visiting Polonnaruwa?

Polonnaruwa has religious shrines and monuments, so it's important to dress appropriately. Shoulders and knees must be covered for both men and women, and shoes will have to be removed to enter the sanctuary, so it is best to use shoes that are easy to put on and take off. Due to the weather in the area, the ground gets hot, so you should bring a pair of socks with you to avoid burning your feet.

It should also be noted that taking pictures with your back to Buddha images or statues is prohibited at all monuments.

How much time to spend in Polonnaruwa?

The monuments in the ancient city are concentrated in one area, and the main attractions are quite easy to see in 1 day, especially if you have a car. The main locations are scattered along the one-way road. In reviews of Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka, tourists are usually advised to set aside a whole day for this excursion, since it can take more than one hour to explore the city.

There are no restaurants in the complex, so it is recommended to eata hearty breakfast on the day of the tour, as well as a light snack and water. However, it is possible to get off at Rankot Vihara and have lunch at one of the nearby guesthouses before returning in the afternoon.

The ruins occupy a much smaller area than in Anuradhapura, while the main attractions are located on a long line. This means that (unlike Anuradhapura) there is no problem either in finding the path or choosing the best order to see all the objects.

Sights of the ancient city

What is the first thing to see in Polonnaruwa? Today, the ruins of the city mainly consist of many interesting temples and religious buildings. However, there are some other non-religious designs of interest. It is recommended to rent a bicycle from the guest house to be able to visit the sights at any time.

The distance between each attraction is not too great, and the ground is fortunately flat. This makes cycling very enjoyable and not too difficult in the heat. If cycling is not an option, there are many guides who are ready to take tourists in taxis, including air-conditioned ones.

There are an incredible number of monuments located next to each other. And it's best to visit them in that order to make the most of your time in the ancient city. The monuments are listed here as they are named on the official map of the Central Cultural Fund, but if you use Google maps, some monuments may be written slightly differently.

Start at the Archaeological Museum

Before entering the archaeological site, you will need to buy a ticket at the box office. The same building also houses the Archaeological Museum, where tourists can learn about the history and excavations of Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka (photo in the article).

It is recommended to use the toilet while here, as it is not so easy to find in the complex itself. Outside the box office, there are many guides that can be hired if needed to have someone show you around the ancient city and tell the story.

Royal Palace, Citadel and Kumara Pokuna

It was believed that it was once a very large building (7 floors high). Now only the foundation remains of the Royal Palace. The red brick walls of the palace are still standing, and when you walk along them, you can recognize the audience hall. It is assumed that at the very beginning it included the royal chambers, official premises, parks and baths. Kumara Pokuna is an example of a royal bath made entirely of stone.

Royal Audience Hall is another great attraction in Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka where you can wander around and explore the best preserved structures in the royal palace. With huge elephants carved into the stones of the walls, each sculpted elephant is in a distinctive position that makes them stand apart from each other. The stairs to the Auditorium are absolutely magnificent with wonderful lions dotted at the highest point of each side.

Sacred Quadrangle

The quadrilateral is without a doubt the highlight of Polonnaruwa: a small enclosed enclosure, 100m wide, filled with many ancient monuments of all shapes, sizes and styles. Originally known as Dalada Maluwa ("Terrace of the Tooth Tooth"), this site was home to the precious Tooth of the Buddha during Polonnaruwa's glory days and was central to the city's religious and ceremonial life.

Entering the Quadrangle, visitors' eyes are likely to be drawn to the stunning Watadaj, an ornate round temple richly carved and moonstones and controlled by a quartet of Buddhas, though they have now lost the roof that once sheltered them. The four sets of steps leading up to the shrine are especially elaborate, laced with carvings of two-tone lions, macaques, and other beasts, both real and mythical.

It is said that Khatadaj, located opposite Vatadazh, got its name as a result of the fact that it was built in just 60 hours (hut). The temple may have once contained a Tooth Relic, although no one is sure of this. What is certain is that the temple was built by Nissankamalla, who placed a long stone inscription right under the main doorway to do so.

Khatadaj's inscription, however, pales in comparison to neighboring Gal Pot - the name means "Stone Book" (although it looks more like an encyclopedia, if not a whole library), including a huge 9 m long slab carved from granite with an inscription, praising the works, character and overall brilliance of His Royal Highness Nissankamalla. The stone is said to weigh 25 tons and was brought from Mihintale, about 90 km away.

Next to Gal Pot is the unusual Satmahal Prasada, a ziggurat-style temple quite unlike anything else in Sri Lanka and looking more Cambodian in style.

On the other side of Khatadaj, Parakramabahu built a modest Atadaj to house the Tooth of the Buddha. Continuing clockwise one can reach the tiny but very elegant little lotus Mandapa with an unusual stone fence and gracefully curved columns.

Continuing counter-clockwise, you can reach the last and one of the largest shrines of the Quadrilateral, a very solid looking Thuparama, like a huge stone box with thick walls, decorated with vimana carvings, the mythical houses of the gods.

North of the quadrangle

Heading north from the Quadrangle, visitors will find another Hindu shrine: the small Indian-style Shiva Devale No. 2, the oldest building in Polonnaruwa. Not far from the ruins of Pabula Vihara is the third largest stupa in the city, although much of its upper half has now disappeared.

Further, ancient Hindu temples are clustered around the North Gate, including shrines dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva and Ganesha. As you head north, you won't miss the majestic Rankot Vihara, the largest stupa in Polonnaruwa, a mighty mass of stone commissioned by Nissankamalla and built by Tamil prisoners of war.

Alahana Pariven Complex

The Alahan Parivena Complex was founded by King Parakramabahu. The monastery complex includes the home of Baddhasim Prasad, a statue and murals in Lankathilak, and the sparkling white stupa of Kiri Veher.

After Rankot Vihara, you can exit to the Alahana Parivena area, once home to the largest monastery in the city. The highlight is the tall Lankatilaka ("Pearl of Lanka"), an unusually tall and narrow shrine that houses a huge but now headless Buddha, with further elaborate celestial vimanas on the outer walls.

North of Lankatilaka is Kiri Vihara ("Temple of Milk"), named after the white stucco that once covered her large stupa, though it is now a dirty grey. On the opposite (south) side of Lankatilaka, Buddha Shima Pasada served as a monastic meetinghouse with four beautiful moonstones at each entrance and urns on pillars (a symbol of abundance) in the outer courtyard.

Gal Vihara

Further north, Gal Vihara is (along with the quadrangle) Polonnaruwa's undeniable landmark: an outdoor sculpture gallery with four huge and exquisite Buddhas carved from a low rock outcrop. The star attraction is a huge 14-meter reclining Buddha, one of the characteristic images of the island, its calm, superhuman features adorned with thin stone bands. Beside him stands a pensive looking Buddha, followed by two seated figures, each perched on elaborately carved backdrops depicting various gods in their celestialdwellings.

To enter Gal Vihara, you need to present your ticket again, so you should make sure that it is not lost. This stone shrine consists of a group of stone sculptures on which the Buddha sits, stands and lies. The standing Buddha statue is especially rare as it shows the Buddha's arms on the chest, which is not often seen. Gal Vihara, also known as Gal Viharya, was formerly known as Uttararama. It is part of Polonnaruwa Park and one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Central Province of Sri Lanka.

Further north

A kilometer from Gal Vihara, the gigantic Demala Maha Seiya was supposed to be the largest stupa in the world, although unfortunately it was never finished, and now all that can be seen is a huge base covered with vegetation, more like a natural hill than an artificial structure.

Demala Maha Seiya is a huge unfinished stupa located in Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka.

It is called "Demala" because it has two levels. Construction was started by King Parakramabahu between 1153 and 1186. It was planned in such a way as to create the largest stupa in the world. However, it was never completed and a small stupa was later built on top of it. Due to this and the fact that the road leading to this place is in disrepair, not many tourists visit this place. Most of the stupa is covered with trees and shrubs. Must visit this place to explore the architecturelast millennium.

South attractions

Next to the Polonnaruwa Museum are the remains of the royal palace complex of Nissankamalla. The most interesting is the beautiful Council Hall (similar to the one in the Citadel). The roof is long gone, but the solid stone base and various columns remain, with an impressive, if caricature-looking, lion at one end.

About 1.5 km south is the Potgul Vihara, which is a circular shrine (or perhaps a library) surrounded by other monastic ruins. Nearby is an imposing stone statue said to be the most bearded Parakramabahu holding a palm leaf manuscript or "Book of the Law", although another theory claims it is actually a fruit.

Nissanka Latha Mandapaya

This is a square building with a great railing design in the old town of Polonnaruwa. This unique structure was built by King Nissaka Malla in Dalada Maluwa, which includes the most sacred and oldest monument in the city. In ancient times, this place was used for reading Buddhist scriptures. The building is an elevated stone platform with numerous columns surrounded by a low stone wall. In the middle of the platform there is a small stupa with a carved figured base. Nissan Latha Mandapaya has many statues and pagodas in her arena.

Lotus Pond

Going a little further north, you can find a lotus pond, named after its unique shape. Once upon a time it was usedbathing monks, and its tiers provided them with seating.

Best tours in Polonnaruwa

One can only wonder that an ancient city in the northern province of Sri Lanka can please tourists from all walks of life. There are so many things to do in Polonnaruwa, ranging from cultural attractions to historical sites, adventures, natural attractions and spiritual activities, that travelers will come back here again and again.

This place is definitely a treasure for photography lovers and bloggers.

Minneriya or Kaudulla National Parks. It's not hard to go on safari to the Minneriya or Caudella National Parks from Polonnaruwa, which are especially popular for their elephant population. The guesthouse or hotel hosting the tourists can very easily book a safari for them.
Parakrama Samudraya (Sea of Parakrama). Built by King Parakramabahu, this is Sri Lanka's largest ancient man-made rainwater reservoir overlooking the western part of the Polonnaruwa area. The significant storage is located in an area of 2,500 hectares and has a volume of 134 million cubic meters. This reservoir is a source of irrigation for the agricultural area of Polonnaruwa and its environment.
Sigiriya. In fact, Sigiriya is an ancient stone palace founded in the northern region of Matale, near the city of Dambulla. The fortress is built on top of a rock, decorated with bright frescoes, and its gates are made in the form of a giant lion. Needvisit different kinds of garden here. Sigiriya is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that offers the best representations of early urban planning. This site reveals the archaeological wonders of Sri Lanka's urban planning, architecture, art and hydraulic technology.
Bicycle rides. You can explore the old city by rolling along the streets running from north to south. Bicycles can be rented from kiosks in the city for the whole day. Cycling along the roads of Polonnaruwa is an easy journey, as all significant places are marked, however, in English. But it will be hard enough to lose your way or roll on rough dirt roads as all the streets are aligned.
Sanctuary of Somavati Chaitiya. The Somawathie Chaitiya Sanctuary in Polonnaruwa (the photos here are excellent) is a nature reserve that is revered by the Buddhists of Sri Lanka as a sacred place. The meeting place attracts thousands of worshipers, being an ancient stupa in the middle of the sanctuary. It is believed that the stupa was built in the 2nd century BC, in which the remains of the Buddha are embodied. The boundaries of the temple cover large fields where you can see a huge herd of wild elephants.

The house of the image of Tivank. Thivanka Image House is one of the largest brick structures in Polonnaruwa and houses a statue of the Buddha called Tivanka for its extraordinary three-point curve at the shoulders, waist and knees. It's really a different kind of Buddha statue that you can't see anywhere else. A statuesurrounded by a double layered stucco wall that accentuates the wall paintings.
Angammedilla National Park. It is a mixture of dry evergreen forests in Sri Lanka. Although not a very large forest, it boasts a huge variety of flora and fauna. If you want to find a place for a relaxing holiday among the greenery, you should go to the Angammedilla National Park.
Village tour with fishing and Sri Lankan lunch. This excursion will allow you to explore the charming countryside of Polonnaruwa by driving a tractor, going fishing and enjoying an authentic Sri Lankan lunch in a country house. One can spend some time in a village house and enjoy a culinary experience.