Tverskoy Boulevard: past and present of Moscow

2024 Author: Harold Hamphrey | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 10:06

“And on Tverskaya, and on Tverskaya, the smell of witchcraft coffee …” - there was a popular song in the 90s of the last century with these words. Everyone who knew and loved Moscow well purred it under their breath with pleasure. However, for those who are familiar with this wonderful city only from books, films and TV shows, the names Arbat, Boulevard Ring, Chistye Prudy sound like music. One of these famous places will be discussed.

Historical background

Of course, you guessed it: this is Tverskoy Boulevard. It got its name from the street to which it originally adjoined. This event took place at the end of the 18th century, or rather, in 1796. However, it is worth looking even deeper into the past. The Moscow principality was a tasty prey for the Crimean Tatars. The Russian land has long groaned from their raids. And in the place where Tverskoy Boulevard is now located, a thick barrier wall was once rebuilt, towering on an earthen rampart. Muscovites, under the guidance of the architect F. Kon, laid it out of white stone, in several rows. And inside, behind the fence, people settled, upset at home.

When the enemy attacked, the townspeople from the walls of the White City were defending. By the way, a historical fact:it was the fortress walls that at one time plunged into fear Kazy-Girey, who refused to storm Moscow. When the restless neighbors calmed down, the Russian state became stronger and was no longer afraid of foreign raids, there was no need for fortifications. The walls dilapidated and crumbled, and in 1774, for the improvement of the city, it was decided to demolish them, level the land in the district and plant trees - in the manner of western parks. This is how Tverskoy Boulevard appeared - the oldest in Moscow, the largest in the city, known and loved by both local residents and guests of the capital.

Rebuilding, rebuilding

Of course, this historical place has changed its appearance. The first trees did not have time to take root, as they were pressed by the buildings of the townspeople, who actively began to develop the free territory. Residential houses, trading shops and shops were molded at the speed of swallows' nests. And the mayors had to almost fight for Tverskoy Boulevard. And birches, although originally Russian trees, did not feel comfortable in the hot Moscow climate. Therefore, soon the white-trunked beauties were replaced by less whimsical, but fragrant lindens. It was then that the townspeople, who finally felt like Europeans, appreciated the innovation. Moreover, the architect Karin, who ennobles this project, put a lot of soul and talent into the business.

Boulevard "new time"

From that distant time to the present day, Tverskoy is the most popular Moscow boulevard for walking and meeting. It is worth mentioning thatit experienced a radical reconstruction in 1812, when the French captured Moscow, and one of the camps was organized on the boulevard. The trees that did not go to the fires (as you remember, it was winter) burned down during the fire. On the other hand, the boulevard was quickly restored in the future, decorating it with statues and busts of great people, picturesque gazebos and sculptures, fountains and bridges, rotundas. In the new confectionery one could enjoy airy cakes and delicious chocolate. A brass military band played popular melodies. The buildings that were built along it then and later bore the bright stamp of classicism. Then tenement houses appeared in Art Nouveau and eclectic styles. Most of them are now federal architectural monuments and are protected by law.

Cultural life and leisure

In our life everything flows, everything changes. So the boulevard in the second half of the 19th century again experienced a period of decline. The last Russian emperor even appointed special caretakers from city officials to deal exclusively with the improvement of places of cultural leisure for Muscovites. Tverskoy Boulevard especially benefited from the decree. The exhibition of book novelties, held here for the first time at the beginning of the last century, has become a good annual tradition, as well as book markets.

In the mezzanine of the Pukolova-Krekshina mansion, exhibitions of works by Russian artists were held. On one of them, Tretyakov saw the painting "Princess Tarakanova" and bought it for his gallery. Currently, Tverskoy is one of the most convenient Moscow boulevards,as if specially adapted for organizing social events.

On its alleys there is a magnificent photo exhibition of Swiss landscapes. Expositions on the space theme were also held here. On the boulevard, you can still join the work of artists, only modern ones.

Restaurants and coffee shops

Speaking of sights, one cannot fail to mention the restaurant on Tverskoy Boulevard. More precisely, about several.

First of all, this is Pushkin, an elite place whose regulars are political and show business stars, socialites and lionesses, open and secret millionaires or just very rich people.

The halls of the restaurant in their interior contain antiques: furniture, tapestries on the walls, dishes and much more. Each of the halls is decorated in a unique individual style, luxurious, noble, beautiful.

The second catering establishment is the Bublik cafe-confectionery. Celebrities love Tverskoy Boulevard. And it is not surprising that the sign "Bublik" indicates: "Ksenia Sobchak's Cafe." The pastries there are wonderful, and the prices are quite affordable even for students. At least that's what they claim!

Walk to Pushkin and not only

Since 1880, at the end of the street there has been a monument that perpetuated the memory of such a great Russian poet as A. S. Pushkin. Tverskoy Boulevard was the first place in Moscow where such a monument was erected. The sculpture by Opekushin stood in its place for 70 years, until in 1950 the monument waswas moved to Pushkinskaya Square. The boulevard is decorated with 2 more wonderful monuments - monuments to Timiryazev and Yesenin. And the third "exhibit" of Tverskoy already belongs to natural monuments. This is the famous Pushkin oak, which is over 230 years old. It is so nice to sit under its canopy and think about the eternal…