The development of tourism in our time has reached such a level that only outer space has remained a forbidden place for travelers so far, and even then not for long.
If 15-20 years ago, conquering peaks was considered an extreme sport, today climbing Elbrus (reviews from beginner tourists say this) is an extreme type of vacation, tickets for which can be bought at a regular travel agency.
Elbrus
Emerging at the end of the Neogene era during the rise of the Caucasus Range, Elbrus was such a powerful volcano that today scientists find the consequences of its ancient eruptions hundreds of kilometers away.
The activity of the volcano ceased 2500 years ago, but Elbrus, whose strength and power remained in local legends and fairy tales, was depicted on maps as a cone with fire back in the 16th century.
One of the highest extinct volcanoes on the planet began to conquer in the early 19th century. The Russian expedition, consisting of scientists and military men, in 1829 tried to conquer Elbrus and even reached a height of 4800 m, as evidenced by the inscription on the stone with the St. George Cross carved on it. But only their Kabardian guide could conquer the summit, since he was moreadapted to rarefied high mountain air.
Evidence of the conquest of Elbrus were commemorative plates on which this event was recorded, but the conquest of the two-headed peaks of the mountain did not stop there. In 1874, the western peak was conquered by English climbers. Both peaks, with an accurate mapping of the topography of the mountain, were explored by the Russian topographer Pastukhov, after whom the rocks at around 4700 meters are named.
Since then, climbing equipment has improved and the number of those who conquered the mountain has increased. Climbing Elbrus (reviews of 20th century climbers speak of this) was a real test of strength, endurance and self-control. Today, every tourist can climb an extinct volcano without special preparation. At the same time, it should be remembered that Elbrus annually takes dozens of lives of those who were careless or too self-confident.
Weather on Elbrus
The climate on Elbrus is more similar to the Arctic, as the average temperature of the hottest month here reaches +8 degrees Celsius, and February is the most severe in terms of weather conditions.
Frequent precipitation in the form of snow and numerous changes in the weather created the mountain's fame as the "guide of the wind", as the name of Elbrus sounds in the Nogai dialect.
Climbers in the 19th and 20th centuries had to rely on luck when setting out to climb. Today, modern meteorological equipment allows you to know in advance when you can go to conquer Elbrus. Reviews of manyclimbers say that knowing the weather ahead of time can often save lives.
For the convenience of climbers, transshipment bases have been installed at different heights of the mountain, the main purpose of which is to serve as a shelter in bad weather and an opportunity to acclimatize before climbing. The latter is a prerequisite, since Elbrus is harsh on those who neglect safety.
Depending on which slope to start climbing, its difficulty depends.
Elbrus - tourist area
Climbing Elbrus (today there are numerous reviews of this) has become a type of tourist holiday relatively recently. The development of infrastructure in the form of a cable car, hotels and transshipment bases has led to the fact that tourists from all over the world have been drawn here.
For example, Mount Cheget (3650 m) is the most difficult ski resort in the world. Everyone who wants to challenge the mountain comes here to test their strength. In the season when snowboarders sharpen their skis on Elbrus (reviews say that this is November), the available 4 lifts and 3 cable car lines are not enough to quickly deliver everyone to the place. Thanks to them, skiers can start their descent from 3070 m above sea level, which is not at all easy for beginners, as a slow ascent and a fast descent can affect the overall well-being in the form of dizziness and nausea.
In existing hotels and nearby cafes, you can relax between runs and gain strength by tasting the local cuisine. You can also start from hereElbrus. Feedback from climbers suggests that the lifts from the Azu glade, which can be reached from the Cheget glade by minibus or on foot (6 km), significantly reduce the time to climb the mountain.
Trekking bases on the mountain itself are not suitable for long stays. Their purpose is to give people the opportunity to go through acclimatization, making the ascent from one base to another, in order to more easily transfer the climb to Elbrus itself. Reviews of tourists say that there is a minimum of conditions sufficient to gain strength.
Elbrus for beginners
The development of the tourism business in the mountains has given rise to a number of new speci alties, one of which is the profession of a guide, or, as they used to say in the old days, a conductor.
Previously, the conductor was obliged to deliver travelers to their destination. Climbing Elbrus for beginners (reviews of beginners especially indicate the importance of this) “brought out” a new generation of professionals, whose main function was not only to accompany, but also to train inexperienced climbers.
As a rule, experienced climbers give recommendations to beginners, which can be found on the Internet, but who reads them? Often, tourists naively believe that if a tour operator makes a tempting offer in the form of conquering peaks, then they will bring him under the white handles to the top of the mountain. In fact, the agency that sold the tour does not care whether the client succeeds in climbing or not. The rest, as they say, is the guide's technique.
Climbing Elbrus for beginners (reviews of all "dummies" areconfirm) starts at home:
- Firstly, at least some physical preparation is required so that the legs can move at the right pace from an unusual load. It is enough 3-4 weeks before the trip to increase the pressure on the legs in the form of small stretches, running, going up and down the stairs. Let the muscles ache at home, then it will be easier to conquer Elbrus. Reviews by beginners that they experienced exorbitant loads that spoiled all the joy of climbing are not uncommon on the Internet.
- Secondly, good equipment is required. It's good, not expensive. Price in this case is not always quality. Some items can be rented on site, but boots should only be worn and comfortable.
- Third, it is important to know about the state of your he alth before climbing the mountains. If a person does not go through acclimatization due to problems with blood pressure or for some other reason, then it is better to conquer lower peaks than Elbrus. Rest (there are also reviews about this) at one of the bases will be interesting, but safe.
- Fourth, always listen to your guide. He is a professional climber, so his recommendations and even orders are out of the question.
It is important for a beginner to understand that when buying a tour to Elbrus, he pays only for an attempt, which can turn into anything, therefore, when going on a trip, you should take good luck with you. For those who are used to relaxing in comfort, an excursion to Elbrus is not suitable. Reviews about the difficulties of climbing and physical activity confirm this.
Climbing from the West
This mountain can be climbed from differentcardinal directions, but not all of them are suitable for beginners. For example, climbing from the west is only suitable for experienced climbers, as here the path is blocked either by powerful glaciers or rocks that require great skill for a difficult climb.
The base camp on the western side is located on a clearing at an altitude of 2670 m (Jily-Su). Acclimatization will take a day, which can be spent with benefit by visiting the healing springs.
The next stage is the ascent to the next camp (3500 m) with some things to go through a new stage of acclimatization. The next day, you can relocate to it with the rest of the things. Camp No. 2 is located on the Bityuk-Tubyu glacier (its moraine). At this stage, an intermediate altitude of 3900 m is taken, at which equipment can be left.
The third camp is at an altitude of 4200 m. Here you can spend a day of rest before leaving for the last base point. An extra day of acclimatization will help an unprepared person regain strength and get used to oxygen starvation.
The fourth base is at an altitude of 4600 m, after which the ascent to Elbrus is already underway. The mountain (climbers say so) becomes less impregnable if the preparatory work has been done correctly.
The climb itself is not dangerous, although the snowy slope has some steepness. If the body has adapted to rarefied oxygen, then the path in good weather will not be difficult and dangerous.
Climbing from the East
From this side you can climb the eastern peak of the mountain, which has a height of 5621m. Here you have to set up base tent camps on your own, if the climber is a beginner, then an experienced guide will be required, since this side of the mountain does not provide comfortable living conditions.
The first camp for adaptation and overnight stay is set at an altitude of 2400 m. The next climb with "digging" is the Irik-Chat pass (3667 m), not far from which tents are set up. Training is carried out on the glacier, after which the ascent to the next level is made - 4000 meters - and tents are set up for an overnight stay.
The assault camp is based at an altitude of 4500 m. After rest, training and a trial conquest of a height of 5000 m are held here. After a period of adaptation, the climb to the top begins, followed by a descent to the base camp.
This is perhaps the most "inhospitable" side of Elbrus.
Climbing from the south
The southern route is the most popular with travel companies and the most equipped for adaptation of all. From this side, you can even conquer Elbrus in winter. Feedback from those who have done this suggests that this requires remarkable physical strength and a willingness to resist frost down to -45 degrees with a piercing wind.
The first acclimatization is carried out at an altitude of 2200 m at the Azu camp site. From here you can comfortably get to the next base by cable car, which ends at an altitude of 2950 m at the Stary Krugozor station.
Changing to another line of the road, you can climb to the next point for adaptation - Mir station (3500 m). It is advisable for beginners not to rush and go through acclimatization gradually, giving each heightat least a day.
From the station "Mir" there is a chairlift to the shelter "Bochki" (3750 m). It is in this camp that the main adaptation takes place. If you go on a tour, then the climbing schedule is something like this:
- On the first day in "Barrels" the usual walk, acquaintance with the surroundings and rest.
- Second day - Hike to "Shelter 11" to a height of 4050 m. The ascent goes at an angle of 10 degrees and takes about 2 hours, as the lungs should gradually adapt to the height. The descent takes 20 minutes.
- Third day - climbing to the Pastukhov rocks (4600), if he alth and weather allow. The ascent is slow, 3-4 hours, near the rocks - a h alt for tea, and then the descent takes 1.5-2 hours.
- Next 1-2 days - either climbing or additional acclimatization. The exit is usually at 2-3 am under the light of flashlights to try to meet the sunrise at the top.
The weather on Elbrus is changeable, so you should be prepared in advance that you may have to turn back in the middle of the way. Mountains do not forgive recklessness.
Climbing from the north
The conquest of Elbrus began once from its northern side. Unlike the comfortable south side with its hotels and ski lifts, here you will have to go the whole way on your own. The first base for acclimatization are the Oleinikov and Roshchina huts or the Lakkolit camp.
Adaptation begins with the ascent to the Lenz rocks (4700 m), training is also held here. Climbing begins after full acclimatization, rest and overnight stay. There will be no more intermediate stops to the top. From the north, most often they climb to the eastern, smaller peak, since it is closer. An experienced guide can take the group to the western peak, although it is easier to do this from the southern slope.
For those who love extreme sports, the skiing and snowboarding season opens Elbrus in November. Reviews about these descents are the most admiring. The weather at this time usually pleases with its still relative warmth and already fallen snow.
You can often see tourists climbing to the top and skiers descending. Elbrus also hosts competitions for the fastest climb to the top. The record holder from Kazakhstan with his indicator of 3 hours 55 minutes. from the Azau glade (2400 m) to the western peak (5642 m) no one has overtaken yet. It takes years of training and knowledge of safety rules to learn how to conquer the mountains.
Safety rules
When people come to Elbrus on a tourist package, they must clearly understand that the main person here is the one who has the experience of climbing to the top, so submission to the person responsible for safety should be unquestioning.
Before going out, even for acclimatization, it is obligatory:
- Checking equipment. It must be intact, dry and secure. Be sure to bring face cream and lip balm, as well as a mask or black glasses.
- Checking the route, checking the time, communications and first aid kit.
- Be sure to have a thermos with hot tea and lightfood - sandwiches, bars or fruit.
Members of the group who have not been registered with the Russian Emergencies Ministry are not allowed on the trip. This necessity is caused by the opportunity to conduct rescue and search work, if the group did not return.
New Year Elbrus
To come to Elbrus for the New Year (reviews about this tour are the most enthusiastic) - it means to combine the meeting of the best holiday of the year with the opportunity to conquer the peak.
The program of the New Year's tour does not allow you to relax, as it requires both gradual acclimatization and the development of skills to walk with "cats" and trekking poles. Learning how to properly pack a backpack is important, as the higher the instep, the harder it will seem.
The same applies to using an ice ax, tying knots and walking in a bundle. It often happens that people who once passed in a bundle while climbing to the top of a mountain become friends for life. Coaches are very serious about the preparation of the group members, as in winter Elbrus can bring surprises with weather, icing and winds.
Skills of insurance on ice and stop of sliding are being worked out, both in a group and independently. It takes 5-6 days to adapt and develop the necessary skills. When buying a ticket to the mountains, it should be understood that the minimum amount of time required to climb is 8-10 days. There are no weekend tours to conquer Elbrus. No one gives guarantees that there will be a rise at all, the weather in these parts is extremely unpredictable.
But if you listen to the instructor,follow all his recommendations, take the course of a young "alpinist" and catch your luck, then this New Year's tour will become the most unforgettable and amazing adventure in life.
