Moscow is a city of many faces. Next to busy modern streets there are places that are practically untouched by modern civilization. They preserved both the spirit of antiquity and ancient architectural monuments that witnessed various - heroic and sad - pages in the history of the Russian state. One of these places, of course, is Izmailovsky Island, which owes its existence to Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, nicknamed the Quietest.
The Creation of the Island
He was a wise and diligent ruler, but he did not differ in a special riot of character, therefore, probably, he did not become too famous. The Izmailovo lands belonged to the Romanov dynasty, and in the middle of the seventeenth century the tsar decided to build a manor here, which was done.
For starters, by building several dams, they connected the Grape and Silver Ponds. This, in fact, led to the emergence of Izmailovsky Island, which is the creation of human hands. After such a witty solution to the defense problem, the construction of the estate began, which ended only in 1690.
The State Residence
In a fenced areathe Sovereign's Court, a wooden tower-palace, a stone Intercession Cathedral, erected on the site of a dilapidated wooden church, and the Bridge Tower were located. It ended with a hundred-meter bridge, through which all the invitees entered the territory of Izmailovsky Island. Not far from the cathedral, the church of Prince Joasaph was erected. Unfortunately, it has not survived to this day, falling victim to the revolutionary-minded working people after the well-known events of 1917. They also seriously damaged the Izmaylovsky Cathedral of the Intercession, a majestic building of the late seventeenth century.
Pokrovsky Cathedral
It was built on the model of the Kremlin Assumption Cathedral and is very richly decorated: small and large tiles on the facades give the building a majestic and elegant look at the same time. The so-called peacock eye is also presented here - a pattern invented by the Russian master Polubes. The domes are not golden, but dark, scaly. They give the cathedral an original, unique look.
The interior of the temple was rather modest. The only exception was the iconostasis, created by the best craftsmen from different regions of Russia.
The Bridge Tower served as the belfry of the main temple of the island for some time. To a certain extent, it is in harmony with the cathedral: it is also decorated with tiles and columns.
Trace of Peter the Great
Since the residence was washed by water, a special boat was delivered from England, on which, if necessary, various trips on the waves were made.
This shipdiscovered young Peter I in one of the household yards of the estate and then entertained the local public, rushing along the Silver-Grape Pond, periodically arranging "sea battles".
Much later, the great emperor will call the wooden participant in the amusements of his youth the "grandfather of the Russian fleet", and Izmailovsky Island itself - his "cradle".
Now the English boat (or rather, what is left of it) is being demonstrated in Vernissage, located nearby - on the other side of the Grape-Silver Pond. Here, quite recently (in 2007), the so-called Izmailovsky Kremlin was built, reproducing the old Russian wooden architecture. The colorful buildings, intended mainly for tourists, offer a beautiful view from the island. The chic ultra-modern Izmailovo hotel complex is also very close by: next to the old buildings of the seventeenth century, it looks like an alien from the future.
Experimental Tsar
The Sovereign's Court was surrounded by numerous buildings of an economic and innovative nature: Alexei Mikhailovich, apparently, was a great supporter of progress. In greenhouses on the territory of Izmailovsky Island, outlandish fruits and vegetables were grown at that time (mostly they experimented with capricious southern crops), numerous artisans worked in the workshops.
The Russian tsar himself, spending the summer in his residence, whiled away the time hunting in the surrounding forests and deciding the fate of the state. Sometimes meetings were held in the Bridge Towerthe "parliament" of the seventeenth century - the Boyar Duma (not such a large tower easily accommodated the participants of the event).
Monuments of ancient architecture
Today this building is one of the few that have survived. In addition to the tower, the already mentioned Pokrovsky Cathedral (still functioning temple on Izmailovsky Island), the Sovereign's Court, and even the Eastern and Western Gates (also called Front and Back) remained. They have remained fully operational to this day. True, the rear most often remain closed.
The rest of the examples of ancient architecture fell under the onslaught of ruthless time and the French army: the estate was thoroughly looted and destroyed during the Patriotic War of 1812.
Only at the end of the thirties, Emperor Nicholas I decided that the holy place should not be empty. By his order, military almshouses were built on the site of the abandoned residence. At the same time, two buildings were erected close to the Intercession Cathedral, which caused the appearance of the building to suffer significantly: two of the three elegant entrances had to be sacrificed and travelers were deprived of the pleasure of seeing the temple from all sides.
However, the architects Ton and Bykovsky should not be blamed for their limited aesthetic sense: by that time the only surviving church on Izmailovsky Island had given a heel and threatened to collapse. Newly built buildings simply pressed it from both sides, serving as a kind of support.
Recoveryjustice
After the Revolution of 1917, the almshouses turned into communal apartments: there was a working settlement called the Bauman town. Some "lucky ones" continued to live here at the end of the 20th century. Then the historical past of Izmailovsky Island was given its due, and now it is part of an institution with a name that cannot be reproduced from memory for a mere mortal (abbreviated as MGOMZ).
There are no entertainment establishments on the territory, it is forbidden to have picnics. Perhaps that is why the neighboring park is more popular: there is even an abundance of all this.
Quiet place in noisy Moscow
For those who prefer a different holiday, Izmailovsky Island is perfect. How to get to this quiet, peaceful and very beautiful place? The nearest metro station is Partizanskaya. The task is facilitated by the pleasant fact that there is only one way out of it, so you won't have to wander in the dungeons.
Walking along the busy Izmailovsky Highway (maximum half an hour), travelers find themselves at one of the three bridges connecting the island with the mainland - Podezdny. It is car-driven, but you shouldn’t expect to ride around the Tsar’s Court in your own convertible: only official cars are allowed to enter, so citizens arriving by personal transport will have to leave the vehicle in the parking lot.
Even closer to the metro there is a curved footbridge, a path leads to it, onto which you can turn off the road leading to the Izmailovsky Kremlin.
The island goes around the perimeterpaved path, so you can admire the surrounding beauties in any weather. In the capital, you rarely find a place as secluded and sparsely populated as Izmailovsky Island. Moscow, rumbling and cramped, seemed to have retreated from him, leaving a space full of peace. The banks overgrown with bushes are full of fishermen waiting for a bite, romantic couples in love roam along the paths and clearings, and even Muscovites who love these places.
Museums and exhibitions of Izmailovsky Island
Meanwhile, Russia is trying to develop in terms of tourism. Fortunately, Izmailovsky Island was no exception: sightseeing and thematic excursions are now available to those who wish to know more about the history of their native land. Their cost is quite democratic, and there are a great many interesting facts, legends and stories.
In the inner courtyard, surrounded by the buildings of the former almshouses, two gates and the cathedral, it is very pleasant to stroll. Centuries-old lindens protect from the scorching sun, and the old walls absorb the noise of the big city almost completely. The yard is green and well-groomed: there are lush blossoms in the flower beds, the paths are cleanly swept.
Most of the buildings house the offices of museum workers and restorers: when the church authorities expelled them from the Novodevichy Convent, there was not much choice. Now the buildings are trying to bring them into line with the new purpose. There is a small and rather poor manor museum. Izmailovsky Island (at least for now) boasts a small amountexhibits. The main asset is the architectural monuments of the seventeenth century, which occasionally host interesting exhibitions. The poster can be found on the convenient and up-to-date museum website. The island is looking forward to its guests.
