The Abbey of Saint-Denis is most often not included in the standard excursion tourist program. This happens due to the fact that it is located in a very disadvantaged suburb of Paris. But this place is of great historical value, it is definitely worth a visit.
The legend of the creation of the abbey
The origin of the name Saint-Denis is associated with the legend of Dionysius, the first bishop of Paris and the patron saint of France. As the story goes, he was sent to these parts by Pantifikos to convert the pagan Gaul to the Christian faith. He was executed in Montmartre during the reign of King Valerian: they cut off his head. However, the body of St. Dionysius approached his head, took it in his hands and walked another six or seven kilometers to the northeast. After which it fell next to a small settlement, which was later named after him: Saint-Denis. This story happened in the distant year 258 AD. Until now, the icons of St. Dionysius is depicted holding his head in his hands.
At the burial place of Dionysius of Paris, or rather even over the grave itself, in 475 it was built with the blessing of Saint Genevievechurch of the monastery of Saint-Denis. At that time there was a Gallo-Roman cemetery here. And in the 7th century, by order of King Dagobert the First, an abbey was erected around. The ruler himself wished to be buried here. All the monarchs of France were buried in the abbey: kings and queens, princesses and princes. Information about the number of burials of higher persons in different sources varies, because not all burials have been preserved. Many graves were destroyed.
Gothic style originates here
The church of St. Dionysius itself was reconstructed many times: in the seventh century, when the monastery was created, during the reign of Pepin the Short. In the XII century, the abbey became already very influential and powerful in France. Therefore, it was decided to expand it and build new buildings. This large-scale reconstruction began to be carried out by Abbot Suger, an enlightened and outstanding religious figure of his generation, a traveler. He was appreciated, several French kings listened to him at once (for example, Louis the Fourth and Louis the Seventh).
The intention of the reconstruction was to reflect the increased weight of France and its culture in Europe, and indeed throughout the world. Construction lasted more than a dozen years. The abbot wanted to keep the original appearance. So, as a result of a mixture of architectural traditions and trends, the Gothic style arose: a fusion of Burgundian and Romanesque styles. And the first building erected in the Gothic style was the abbey church of Saint-Denis.
Suger the architect owns the creation of tall stained-glass windows with imagesstories from the Bible, "stained glass rose" over the entrance, which became the decorations of the abbey. The Church of Saint-Denis continued to be restored even after the death of Abbot Suger. In subsequent centuries, something was constantly changed in it, so the decoration of those centuries has only partially survived to this day.
Tomb of the French Kings
In the 13th century, Louis IX ordered the burials of all the monarchs who ruled before him to be transferred to the territory of the Abbey. The church also began to serve as the tomb of the kings of France.
On the tombstones of different times, one can trace how the funerary art changed and developed in different centuries. Some of the slabs and monuments are decorated with statues-figures of sleeping monarchs (this is typical of the twelfth century), in the Renaissance, tombstones were decorated with compositions already with the hope of resurrection.
The Abbey of Saint-Denis in the days of the revolution in France
The Hundred Years War, the Huguenot wars caused significant damage to the architecture of the abbey, but the tombs suffered mostly during the French Revolution. The ashes of the Autocrats were dumped into a ditch and buried, a large number of works of art stored on the territory were taken out or lost.
They say that the revolutionaries put on public display the body of King Louis the Fourth. For a while, anyone could come up and stare at the remains. Some of the bodies were torn apart, taken home by necrophiles and even sold.
This black page of the history of the Abbey of Saint-Denis almostended. The cathedral was supposed to be demolished by order of the National Assembly, but it was canceled at the last moment.
In 1814, the relics of the kings dumped into the "mass graves" were dug out, collected in the crypt in the assuary. And in 1869, the basilica of the Abbey of Saint-Denis itself was restored by the remarkable French architect Viollet-le-Duc, who restored more than one great monument. He worked, for example, on the Cathedral of Notre Dame, Mont Saint-Michel and others. Back in the 17th century, Saint-Denis again began to function as a tomb for the crown.
King's burial ceremony
In the 17th century, according to the theory of French lawyers, the king must be immortal. This was emphasized in every possible way with the help of a large number of burial rituals. The autocrat had a dual essence: a man and God's anointed one. For example, the funeral of King Henry the Fourth lasted forty days. The monarch's entrails were removed after death and buried in the Abbey of Saint-Denis separately and without ceremony. The heart was cleansed, infused with alcohol and folded, rubbed with herbs, into a cloth bag, then into a lead box, which was already placed in a silver box. The hearts of monarchs were kept in different places. They were given special importance, since it was with their hearts that they rooted for France. The body was embalmed and buried separately. An effigy of the king was also made from straw, however, after the French Revolution, none of them survived. The effigy of Henry the Fourth imitated the life of the living with the help of special ritualsking for 10 days.
In Saint-Denis, all the royal regalia accompanied the embalmed body until the very last moment: the utterance of the iconic phrase of the transfer of the throne to new hands.
The king is dead… Long live the king!
After this phrase, the king's regalia followed as quickly as possible to Reims for the coronation.
Meaning of Saint-Denis
Starting from the 11th-12th centuries, the abbey was of great importance in France: not only monarchs were buried here, but also heirs were trained, queens were crowned here. The monastery of Saint-Denis conducted educational activities in the Middle Ages, the monks were engaged in charity work: there was a hospital, a nursing home and an orphanage.
The abbey basilica also has architectural significance: it is the origin of the development of the Gothic style, stained glass art was born here.
The Saint-Denis necropolis reflects the development of French funeral ceremonies and is a unique monument with 51 tombstones.
In 2004, the heart of Louis XVII, the son of Marie Antoinette, was buried here, who, although he did not rule, was recognized as king by many European countries and in the USA.
How to get to the abbey
The thirteenth line of the Paris metro will lead you to the basilica. The stop is called Basilique St Denis towards the outskirts station.
You can also use the high-speed train (in Paris it is abbreviated as RER), line D, the station is called: Saint Denis.
Working hoursBasilicas
You can get to the altar part of the church for free. From here you can look at the burials through the bars. The basilica is open for visits almost every day, except when funerals or weddings take place in it. The entrance to the necropolis is paid, it is located on the right side of the Saint-Denis Cathedral. Photos are not allowed inside.
No events in the history of France could completely destroy this burial place of the great monarchs, a monument of French culture, a witness to the change of times and cultures. The visitor will undoubtedly be impressed by the Gothic vaults of the cathedral, virtuoso stained-glass windows and tombstones that differ greatly in style from the epoch: from gloomy medieval to renaissance monuments that inspire hope for resurrection and eternal life.
